It’s always wise to reconnoitre a walk, even if you believe you know the route well. But more of that later.
Yours truly and two charming companions left Afan Argoed Forest Park to join the abandoned track of the old Rhondda and Swansea Bay railway to make our way towards Pontrhydyfen. After a short diversion into woodlands, occasioned by a landslip, we rejoined the track and soon found ourselves in Rhyslyn car park, the site of the former Pontrhydyfen railway station. We marvelled at the effort and expertise of the workers who constructed the enormous bridge abutments and the spectacular but now redundant aqueduct which once took water across the valley to feed the Oakwood iron works.
Crossing the aqueduct, now a footpath and cycleway, we entered Oakwood where we were intrigued by signs at Bethel Chapel welcoming walkers and cyclists which could not be ignored. Entering we discovered the pews had been rearranged to allow seating at individual tables each with an inscribed quotation from “Under Mike Wood” a work associated with Richard Burton, born nearby, whose photographs adorned the walls. On one side a cafe served breakfasts, beverages and delicious cakes. All in all a wonderful discovery which triggered my companions into considering plans for a return visit.
Eventually tearing ourselves away we proceeded through the village to join another old railway track, the Port Talbot Railway and Docks Company, to cross the huge red brick viaduct before taking a sharp right onto a forestry road down into Pontrhydyfen itself near the confluence of the Afan and Pelena rivers directly under the viaduct which is where we posed for the obligatory photograph. Pressing on, past the house where Richard Burton was born we regained Rhyslyn where a short halt for refreshments was taken before descending to take the path alongside the Afan, proceeding up the valley. The sheer verdant profusion of the trees was spellbinding. Then a short, steep climb up to the forestry road to continue up the valley brings us back to the opening remarks!
Some way ahead we could see a barrier across the track which we approached with some trepidation not wanting to contemplate a four mile retracing of steps. We reached the barrier at the same time as three burly mountain bikers and, together, we managed to lift a section so we all could resume our journeys. Further along as we descended to cross the valley we discovered the reason for the diversions – tree felling operations. We discovered too that a barrier was blocking access to the footbridge across the river but, observing that two mountain bikers ahead had managed to pass and deciding that this was our point of no return we pressed on. Circumventing the barrier and climbing up and over the bridge parapet we succeeded with some style. Up on the rail track a helpful cyclist stopped; “You can’t go down there, it’s blocked”. “Is it really. Thank you but we were not thinking of that, we are off to the Forest Centre”. And that is what we did; for a mug of life saving tea!
A day of discovery and trials overcome. Tiring but hugely enjoyable. Must do a recce next time. Just under six miles and, apart from a few spots of rain at the start, a fine warm day.
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