The cooling effect of a light morning shower had dissipated as nine (plus one) of us gathered at the site of the old Cymer Corwyg railway station so it was in hot, humid conditions that we set off down the steep hill to the confluence of the Afan and Corrwg rivers. We didn’t linger long as the weeks of dry weather meant that the meeting of rushing waters was not the spectacle normally to be seen.
From there it was a steady climb, alongside the road at first, and then on to the stoney hillside track above the Afan Valley with panoramic views over Cymer and beyond. The path levelled out and we enjoyed the verdant profusion of trees clothed in every imaginable shade of green and, beside the track, foxgloves and rosebay willow herb provided splashes of colour.
More climbing brought us to the highest point of the route where a series of tumbling waterfalls was, disappointedly, now but a trickle. After a brief stop for a drink we descended onto Tunnel Terrace, Blaengwynfi where the open door of the Tunnel Hotel proved irresistible. The landlord at first appeared surprised to see us but, with his wife, proved extremely hospitable and helpful with historical information and the world’s cheapest coffee and biscuits.
Tearing ourselves away from this rather palatial establishment we saw where the approach-cutting and portal of the renowned, two mile long, Rhondda railway tunnel once were, and which are now completely covered over with soil. Plans to reopen it for pedestrian and cycle traffic are still ongoing. Nearby an explanatory plaque told of the great prosperity that the area, known as “The Cape”, enjoyed owing to the the coal industry and supporting railway infrastructure.
Leaving Blaengwynfi we followed the abandoned track of the Llynfi and Ogmore Valley railway back towards Cymer where the parched grasses and low vegetation were enlivened by the occasional purple orchid. Eventually we left the main track to negotiate a short but rather rough footpath to examine the entry to the short Gelli Tunnel, by way of which the Rhondda and Swansea Bay railway made it to Blaengwynfi and its much grander tunnel.
Carrying on we paused on the impressive seven arch stone viaduct to take the team photograph and it was then but a short step into Cymer where the siren call of “The Refresh” could not be ignored. We therefore ended our thoroughly enjoyable day with much needed drinks after 5.5 miles in hot and humid conditions.
Two pub stops – a pub crawl! Could this be a first for Wick Wanderers?
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